A solemn visit to the Jewish Cemetery, Trebon

The weekend of Oct. 10-11, we made two trips to visit and photograph the Jewish Cemetery in Trebon. A few weeks earlier we had seen the former Jewish Synagogue in Trebon (see Sept. posting about the fishing opener) which is a few building away from the gates to Rosenberg Castle. It is now a residence.

We made a trek out to the Jewish Cemetery located in the woods outside of the city of Trebon. Our colleague Jan directed us to its location on the map. We headed out there on Saturday after enjoying the Roenberg Fish Harvest. It was late in the afternoon; the long rays of the sun shown brightly through trees of the forest as we drove down a quiet dirt road to the cemetery.

The leaves silently were falling from the trees, after the last frost, a gentle rain of tears that tugged upon us as we slowly, quietly started to absorb the horrors that we saw.  Here, the building next to the cemetery had once been razed during the Nazi occupation. The walls had been painted over, but now the Hebrew above the door is once again visible:

and a new roof graces the building.

The walls of the cemetery were still the original ones; the gate invited us to look inside.

The gate, however, was securely locked. It is still the original gate with the Rosenberg Rose emblem on it. Here, Mark and Lynn soak up the emotional entrance.

Upon looking inside, one can barely encompass the horrors that happened here during the Nazi occupation. All of the grave stones were gone; completely destroyed (pulverized) in Hitler's attempt to obliterate the Jews.  Some new stones have been added in the front rows of graves by donations from around the world. There is also a monument (all new) in the center of the cemetery. But all of the stones in the back were gone and not replaced, for some reason.

The moving visit breathed a poem that welled up inside of Neil...

In Coming Here

Reflections on visiting the Jewish Cemetery,

Trebon, Czech Republic

10-11 Oct. 2010

Neil O. Anderson

Softly turn car tires as we descend from pavement

to gravel tracks:

edginess colored, muted with newly fallen yellow

of

maple, basswood.

Leaves embed our stop at forest edge

between

now, then.

Here strong, tall brick run walls around the dead.

Could we,

in living,

breathe

what happened here?

A silent biker passes down the road,

‘round the cornerstone,

we view

a once table, cart

bent now

beneath the weight of leaves.

Rusted hasp and lock of gate

stop us:

fall of headstones,

hammered, pulverized erasure

of those

here

then and now.

How can it be that we,

in love outstretched

bend of falling leaves?

Gently green the moss

fill cracks of mortar, hatred, brick, unrest.

Lay our hearts within the gates

so we,

beneath the leaves,

may keep the here, now

a part of them.

Disclaimer: This blog is not an official University of Minnesota or Fulbright Program blog. The views expressed are my own and not those of the Fulbright Program, the U.S. Department of State or any of its partner organizations, or the University of Minnesota.

What to do with all of those Bohemian beer caps: make a quilt!

As we were walking around Ceske Budejovice enjoying a lovely October Saturday morning, we discovered a shop window with a unique idea:  make a quilt using those beer bottle caps!

Here it is up close:

We posit that any wine lover could make one out of corks as well.

Disclaimer: This blog is not an official University of Minnesota or Fulbright Program blog. The views expressed are my own and not those of the Fulbright Program, the U.S. Department of State or any of its partner organizations, or the University of Minnesota.

Apple Pie....made with 'Bohemia' apples

When our fellow Fulbrighter, Lynn, came for a visit it was in the peak of the apple season. We had found some large pie apples at a farm stand about 20 km north of Ceske Budejovice named 'Bohemia'. These are large red/yellow apples with a delicious bite, crisp edge, and mouthful of flavor!  Wow.  They went miles beyond the Minnesota 'Honey Crisp' apple.  So it seemed that a pie was in order, made in our Czech deep dish (bought at the July festival of Holasovice--see our earlier posting). Mark made the pate brisee crust while Neil made the filling, spiced with fresh zest of lemon, shavings of fresh nutmeg, a dash of cinnamon and zest of fresh ginger.
Voila!

Neil seems to be enjoying it immensely!

A perfect way to enjoy a great weekend with friends and exploring South Bohemia.

Disclaimer: This blog is not an official University of Minnesota or Fulbright Program blog. The views expressed are my own and not those of the Fulbright Program, the U.S. Department of State or any of its partner organizations, or the University of Minnesota.

Historic Rzmberk (Rosenberg) Pond Fish Harvest, 7-11 Oct 2010

If you remember from an earlier blog post in September when we were at the Fish Harvest Opening Event in Trebon, we posted pictures of old photographs, drawings, and paintings from the Archives in the Rosenberg Castle which depicted historic fish harvesting events at this site.  Well, this October, we got to see the event, taste the food (carp, trout, salmon, cheeses, and Regent beer--made in Trebon, of course)!
On Wednesday (7 Oct), the day that the fishing started, Neil and Jan went to see the startup (no crowds!). It was a bitter cold day, however.....didn't look like much fun being in the water with boots on in the cold wind.
The pond was drained down to allow for the fish to be rounded up in nets and driven towards shore so that the fish harvesters could, well, .... 'fish'!!

Before starting the fishing event each 'pond' is drained down to bring the fish towards the surface. So here, is the huge Rosenberg Pond drained down.  You can see a broad shoreline that suddenly surfaces!

Hardly anyone was around on that cold Wednesday.....the fisherman occasionally retired to the house at the edge of the pond to warm up with a nip of brandy.  Hmmm!  We came back later that week (on Saturday, 10 Oct), along with another Fulbrighter who visited for the weekend with us. By then it had turned into a huge events, with hundreds of tents lining the pond and thousands of people and cars everywhere!

We parked Mark's chair up at the top of the hill and descended the stairs to the edge of the pond to watch up close while the fishermen scooped up the fish in big nets, ran them through a conveyor belt system and sorted them into tubs, based on type of fish (carp, salmon, trout) and size.

We watched up close, got all wet and cold, then went back up to the top of the hill and walked around, sampling carp steaks, trout, and other goodies such as smoked sheep cheese grilled outside (wow...so tasty!).  After a few hours we were tired of the crowds and went on to our next adventure that day.

Here's the official flag of the Rzmberg Pond flying proudly above as we departed.

Disclaimer: This blog is not an official University of Minnesota or Fulbright Program blog. The views expressed are my own and not those of the Fulbright Program, the U.S. Department of State or any of its partner organizations, or the University of Minnesota.

We're traveling....

All over the Czech Republic...collecting reed canarygrass.
Will post tons of pictures soon!

Disclaimer: This blog is not an official University of Minnesota or Fulbright Program blog. The views expressed are my own and not those of the Fulbright Program, the U.S. Department of State or any of its partner organizations, or the University of Minnesota.

Prague (Praha) at night...

Another day draws to a close in the gorgeous city of Praha. Gold on the tower's figures glint in the setting sun

A chill starts to descend throughout the streets in late September.

Sculptures and people alike feel the darkness starting to descend. Here a modern 'key' sculpture

beckons the adjacent church to join the darkness:

In Old Town Square, jet trailings point the way to evening above the old City Hall

where even the ancient sun dial no longer catches a glimmer of rays even as spectators crowd around every hour to watch and hear:

Let the joyous night festoon and light our souls with brilliance for another day!

Máme vás rádi Praha! (We love you, Prague!)

Disclaimer: This blog is not an official University of Minnesota or Fulbright Program blog. The views expressed are my own and not those of the Fulbright Program, the U.S. Department of State or any of its partner organizations, or the University of Minnesota.

You're cordially invited to a reception at the U.S. Ambassador's Residence, Prague (Praha)!

During our Fulbright Orientation week in Prague, we visited the US Embassy Office at the American Center.

Later in the week, however, everyone in the Fulbright Program received an invitation from The Charge d'Affaires, Mr. John Ordway, to attend a reception at the U.S. Ambassador's Residence, located near to the Vila Lanna where we were staying:

So, we all gathered at this stunningly beautiful residence on Thursday evening for a reception and speeches by the Czech Fulbright Commission Chairman of the Board (who is from my host university, Jihoceska Univerzita, Ceske Budejovice), our Czech Fulbright Director, and The Charge d'Affaires.
(Note, of course, that at the present time we do not have a US Ambassador to the Czech Republic--one has been nominated by President Obama but has yet to be confirmed by the Senate).

Join us for a delightful evening of wine and hors d'oeuvres while we walk around the house and grounds.

The outdoor patio (above) and pool room (below)

Another view of the patio.

Some of the lovely grounds to stroll through...

Mark sitting outside on the patio, waiting for hor d'euvres!

Neil in the library...

Other views of rooms inside, each of which had multiple chandeliers of exquisite Bohemian leaded crystal.

The mansion has a sad story (see the website: http://prague.usembassy.gov/ambassadors_residence.html). It was built by a wealthy Jewish family in the 1920s, the Petscheks. They sold all of their holdings in Czechoslovakia when the Nazi invasion was imminent, moving to the U.S. (where family members still live). During the war years, Nazi troops used the mansion; later the Soviets did also. Fortunately most of it was left untouched. The family was later compensated for their losses.

At night, the scene as we left....gorgeous no matter what time of day or night.

Disclaimer: This blog is not an official University of Minnesota or Fulbright Program blog. The views expressed are my own and not those of the Fulbright Program, the U.S. Department of State or any of its partner organizations, or the University of Minnesota.